3 Days in Oslo: A Complete Family Guide
3 days with kids in… OSLO The Ultimate Family Guide (2026) Getting there Where to stay Food Dude Top things to do Weather Tips Oslo surprised us. We had heard it was expensive — and yes, it is — but what nobody told us was how easy it is to travel here with children. The city is stroller-friendly, the public transport is excellent, the museums are genuinely world-class, and the Norwegians have a quiet, warm way with kids that makes you feel completely welcome everywhere you go. Three days felt like just enough to scratch the surface, and we left already planning a return trip. Here is everything you need to know to do Oslo right with your family. Getting to Oslo: The Airport Train Oslo Gardermoen Airport (OSL) is about 50 kilometres north of the city centre, and getting in is refreshingly straightforward. The Flytoget Airport Express Train The fastest and most comfortable option is the Flytoget — Oslo’s dedicated airport express train. It runs every 10 minutes during peak hours, takes exactly 19 minutes to Oslo Central Station (Oslo S), and costs 230 NOK per adult (approximately $22 USD). Children under 16 travel free with a paying adult. You can buy tickets at the airport, at the station, or through the Flytoget app. The trains are clean, modern, and have luggage racks — perfect for families arriving with full suitcases. The Vy Regional Train (Budget Option) If you want to save money, the Vy regional train (formerly NSB) runs the same route for around 113 NOK per adult ($11 USD) and takes about 23 minutes. It stops at more stations but is perfectly comfortable. Buy tickets through the Vy app or at the station. From Oslo Central Station to Anker Hotel Once you arrive at Oslo S, Anker Hotel is a 15-minute walk northeast through the city. Head up Storgata — the hotel is at number 55. Alternatively, take Tram 11, 12, or 13 from Jernbanetorget (right outside Oslo S) two stops to Brugata. The hotel is a two-minute walk from there. A taxi from the airport costs approximately 700–900 NOK ($65–85 USD) and takes 30–45 minutes depending on traffic. Practical Tip: Buy an Oslo City card (Ruter single ticket) for the tram — it costs 42 NOK per adult and children under 6 travel free. Download the Ruter app before you arrive to buy tickets digitally and avoid queues. Where to Stay: Top 4 Family Hotels in Oslo Anker Hotel ⭐⭐⭐⭐ Storgata 55, 0182 Oslo | Book here Anker Hotel is our top pick for families visiting Oslo, and not just because of the price — though at roughly 1,200–1,800 NOK per night ($115–170 USD) for a family room, it is genuinely one of the best value options in the city. It is the kind of place that feels honest and unpretentious, run by the Anker Foundation (a non-profit organisation that began in the early 1970s to provide affordable student housing in Oslo), and there is something refreshing about staying somewhere with a genuine social mission rather than a corporate hotel chain. The hotel sits on Storgata in the heart of Oslo, right on the edge of the Grünerløkka neighbourhood — Oslo’s most vibrant, creative district, full of independent coffee shops, vintage stores, street art, and excellent restaurants. It is 900 metres from Oslo Central Station, a 15-minute walk from Karl Johans Gate (the main pedestrian street), and within easy reach of the T-bane and tram network.The Family Room is the star of the show for travelling families. It accommodates up to five guests and comes configured with either a bunk bed plus two separate beds and a sofa bed, or three separate beds plus a sofa bed and a chair bed. Every room has a refrigerator (invaluable for storing snacks and kids’ drinks), USB-C charging sockets, a flat-screen TV, a wardrobe, and free WiFi. The rooms are not enormous by international hotel standards, but they are well-designed and genuinely functional for families. Breakfast is served in the hotel’s newly renovated dining room and is a proper Scandinavian buffet — hot dishes including bacon, eggs, and beans, fresh bread, cold cuts, cheeses, yoghurt, and good coffee. Gluten-free and dairy-free alternatives are available, which we appreciated. Weekday breakfast runs from 06:00 to 10:00; weekends from 07:00 to 11:00. What we love most about Anker is its location in Grünerløkka. Step outside the front door and you are immediately in one of the most interesting parts of Oslo. The neighbourhood has a young, creative energy that children find exciting — there is always something to look at, street food to try, and parks to run around in. The nearby Tøyen area is home to the Natural History Museum and Tøyen Park, both excellent for families. And the Botanical Garden (free entry) is just a 10-minute walk away — a beautiful place for a morning stroll before the day’s activities. The one honest downside: Storgata is a busy urban street, so rooms facing the front can be noisy at night. Request a courtyard-facing room when you book. Thon Hotel Rosenkrantz ⭐⭐⭐⭐ Rosenkrantz’ gate 1, 0159 Oslo | Book on Booking.com Right in the city centre, a five-minute walk from the Royal Palace and Karl Johans Gate. The Thon chain is Norway’s most trusted hotel brand and the Rosenkrantz is one of their best family options — spacious rooms, excellent breakfast, and a location that puts you within walking distance of almost everything. Expect to pay 1,800–2,500 NOK per night ($170–240 USD) for a family room. Scandic Vulkan ⭐⭐⭐⭐ Maridalsveien 13, 0178 Oslo | Book on Booking.com A design-forward hotel in the trendy Vulkan district, right next to Mathallen Oslo (the city’s best food hall) and the Akerselva river. Excellent for families who want a more contemporary feel and easy access to great food. Family rooms are well-sized and the location is superb. Rates from 1,600–2,200 NOK per night ($150–210 USD). Scandic Holmenkollen Park ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Kongeveien 26, 0787 Oslo | Book on Booking.com If Anker
We Took Three Kids Into the Trollfjord on a Silent Electric Boat (And Nobody Cried)
We Took Three Kids Into the Trollfjord on… Brim Explorer (And Nobody Cried) The Setup The Trollfjord Details Why go? I have been on a lot of boat tours. Most of them sound like a lawnmower having a breakdown. You stand on the deck, you point at something beautiful, and you scream “LOOK AT THE—” into a wall of diesel engine until the moment is gone and so is your will to narrate. The Brim Explorer cruise into the Trollfjord is the opposite of that. The boat is hybrid-electric. For long stretches it runs on the electric engine, which means it makes almost no noise at all. You glide into one of the most dramatic fjords in Lofoten and the loudest thing on board is your own kid asking, at a normal volume, whether eagles can pick up a child. (The answer is no. Probably. We did not test it.) The setup The tour leaves from Svolvær, which is Brim’s home base in Lofoten and a very easy place to find yourself with three children and a backpack full of snacks. The boat itself is purpose-built for sightseeing — three open decks, enormous panoramic windows, and enough space that nobody has to share a bench with a stranger’s elbow. Inside it’s all clean Norwegian design and warmth; outside it’s the Arctic doing its full show-off routine. On the way out of the harbour you pass the Fiskerkona, the Fisherman’s Wife statue that has spent decades waving the local fishermen off and welcoming them home. The guides tell you this kind of thing as you go — actual history and local culture, not the recycled trivia you can already read on a placard. The Trollfjord Then you reach the Trollfjord, and it’s genuinely difficult to explain why a narrow gap in some rock is so affecting. It just is. The walls go straight up out of the water. The fjord is so tight and tucked-away that it’s only reachable by boat or a 10km hike over the mountains, which is to say: you are not getting here by accident, and that’s part of the magic. This is white-tailed eagle country — sea eagles, the largest eagle in Europe, with a wingspan of up to 2.4 metres (roughly one of my children, fully extended). They soar against cliffs that make them look small, which should tell you something about the cliffs. One detail I appreciated, and that I’ll happily put in writing: Brim does not bait the eagles. A lot of operators throw fish to get the birds to swoop dramatically close for the cameras. Brim has decided that’s not appropriate and doesn’t do it. You see the eagles being eagles, on their terms. As a parenting philosophy that also tracks. If conditions allow, the crew drops a sub-water drone over the side and you get to see what’s happening below the surface — kelp forests, fish, the whole hidden half of the fjord. For my kids this was the headline event. For me it was fifteen consecutive minutes in which all three of them were silent and pointing at the same screen, which at current Norwegian exchange rates is priceless. The bit your spreadsheet wants Departs: Svolvær, Lofoten Length: roughly 3.5–4 hours (deliberately unhurried — this is “slow travel,” not a race) Price: from 1,490 NOK per adult On board: drinks and local snacks for purchase, indoor warmth, plenty of outdoor deck, clean bathrooms Good to know: dress warmer than you think; the wind on deck doesn’t care that it’s summer There’s also a shorter Sea Eagle & Sunset Cruise (about 1.5 hours, from 790 NOK) if you’ve got younger kids or a tighter day — same eagles, same silence, less commitment. Why I’d send a friend Brim runs the whole operation around a simple idea: see Norway without wrecking the thing you came to see. The fleet is electric and hybrid-electric, and in Lofoten they’re tied into the islands’ “De Grønne Øyene” (the Green Islands) goal of cutting emissions in half by 2030. So you get the quiet, you get the views, and you get to feel slightly less guilty than usual about your carbon footprint. Everybody wins, including the eagles. If you do one boat thing in Lofoten, do this one. The silence alone is worth the ticket. The fact that my children experienced genuine awe — visible, jaw-open, phone-forgotten awe — was the part I didn’t see coming. Book the Silent Trollfjord Cruise here: Brim Explorer on GetYourGuide We sailed with Brim Explorer as part of a partnership. All opinions, exaggerations, and eagle-related anxieties are entirely our own.
2 Weeks in Japan with Kids
2 weeks with kids in… Japan Tokyo, Nikko, Kanazawa, Kyoto & Osaka (Our Full Family Itinerary) Itinerary Getting Around Tokyo Nikko Kanazawa Kyoto Osaka Budget Tips Final Thoughts If there is one country that has genuinely stopped us in our tracks, where the kids declared on day two that they never wanted to leave, it is Japan. We had heard the hype. We had read the posts. We still were not prepared for how extraordinary it actually is.Japan is safe in a way that feels almost surreal. It is clean, organized, endlessly fascinating, and this surprised us most it is one of the most family-friendly countries we have ever visited. Vending machines on every corner, toilets that do things you did not know you needed, food that makes your kids forget they ever had a “picky phase,” and a culture that genuinely welcomes children everywhere. We left planning to come back. Our two weeks took us through Tokyo (5 nights), Nikko (2 nights), Kanazawa (2 nights), Kyoto (4 nights), and Osaka (3 nights). We moved between cities by bullet train (Shinkansen), which, let’s be honest, was an attraction in itself. The kids talked about the trains almost as much as DisneySea.Here is everything we did, everything we loved, and everything you need to know to plan your own family trip to Japan. Our 2-Week Japan Itinerary at a Glance City Nights Don’t Miss Tokyo 5 DisneySea, TeamLab, Skytree, Meiji Jingu, Kamakura day trip Nikko 2 Tōshōgū Shrine, Kegon Falls, Edo Wonderland, Three Wise Monkeys Kanazawa 2 Kenroku-en, Ninja Temple, Higashiyama, gold leaf ice cream Kyoto 4 Kinkaku-ji, Kiyomizu-dera, Samurai training, Kimono rental, Ninenzaka Osaka 3 Universal Studios, Dotonbori, Nara day trip, Hanshin Tigers baseball Getting Around Japan with Kids Before we dive in, a word on transport: get a JR Pass before you leave home. It covers the Shinkansen between cities and saves you a significant amount of money. We also picked up IC cards (Suica or ICOCA) for local trains, buses, and even convenience store purchases. The trains in Japan are so punctual, so clean, and so easy to navigate that we genuinely looked forward to every journey. Even the youngest members of our group were obsessed. One tip: travel with a lightweight luggage forwarding service (called takkyubin) between cities. For a few dollars per bag, your suitcases are delivered to your next hotel overnight while you travel unencumbered. It is one of the best things we did. Tokyo — 5 Nights Tokyo is enormous, electric, and somehow completely manageable with kids. We based ourselves in Asakusa, which we cannot recommend highly enough for families. It is one of Tokyo’s oldest neighbourhoods, full of traditional architecture and street food stalls, and it sits right next to Senso-ji Temple — one of the most atmospheric spots in the city. The metro connections from Asakusa are excellent, and the area has a slightly slower pace than Shibuya or Shinjuku, which we appreciated after long days of sightseeing. We had five nights and still felt we could have used more. Here is what we packed in: Tokyo DisneySea This was the undisputed highlight of Tokyo for our kids, and honestly for us too. DisneySea is unlike any Disney park in the world — it is built around the theme of the sea and exploration, with seven distinct “ports of call” ranging from a Jules Verne-inspired volcanic island to a Mediterranean harbour. The theming is extraordinary, the rides are genuinely thrilling for older kids, and the food is miles above what you find at Disney parks elsewhere. We paid around $70 USD per person for tickets booked in advance online — and yes, every single dollar was worth it. Book well ahead, especially in peak season. TeamLab Borderless and Planets Tokyo is home to two TeamLab immersive art experiences and we did both. TeamLab Borderless (recently reopened in Azabudai Hills) is a labyrinthine world of digital art installations where light, sound, and movement blur together in ways that are genuinely hard to describe. Our kids ran through it with their mouths open. TeamLab Planets in Toyosu is smaller but arguably even more visceral — you walk barefoot through rooms of water and light that feel like stepping inside a dream. Tickets for both are around $25–30 USD per person and must be booked in advance. Do not skip either. Tokyo Skytree At 634 metres, the Skytree is the tallest tower in Japan and the second tallest structure in the world. The views from the observation decks are staggering — on a clear day you can see all the way to Mount Fuji. We went in the late afternoon and stayed for sunset, which was spectacular. Tickets are around $15–20 USD per person. The Skytree is located right in Asakusa, so it was a short walk from our hotel. Meiji Jingu In the middle of Tokyo, surrounded by 170 acres of forested park, Meiji Jingu is one of the most serene places we visited in the entire country. The walk through the towering torii gate and along the forested path to the shrine feels genuinely removed from the city around it. Entry is free, and it is a wonderful contrast to the sensory overload of the rest of Tokyo. Go early in the morning before the crowds arrive. Senso-ji Temple and Nakamise Shopping Street Right on our doorstep in Asakusa, Senso-ji is Tokyo’s oldest temple and one of its most visited — but it earns the crowds. The approach along Nakamise-dori is lined with stalls selling everything from traditional snacks to beautifully crafted souvenirs, and the kids loved drawing omikuji (fortune-telling paper slips) from the wooden boxes at the temple. Go at dawn or dusk to see it at its most magical. Day Trip to Kamakura We took the train south of Tokyo to Kamakura for a full day and it was one of our favorite days of the entire trip. The Great Buddha (Kotoku-in) is genuinely awe-inspiring — 13 metres of bronze sitting serenely in
Croatia Travel: from Shoestring to Luxury Options
Croatia Travel: from Shoestring to Luxury Options A Detailed Budget Breakdown (Or How to Deplete Your Savings on Seafood and Island Hopping) Accomodation Food and Drink Transportation Activities Sample Daily Budgets Unexpected Expenses Accomodations: Budget: 150-300 HRK ($25-45 USD) per night (hostel dorms or basic rooms) Mid-range: 400-800 HRK ($60-120 USD) per night (decent hotels or Airbnb) Luxury: 1000+ HRK ($150+ USD) per night (high-end hotels or seaside villas) Pro tip: Consider staying in “sobe” – private rooms in family homes, often a budget-friendly option with a local touch. Food and Drink: Burek (pastry snack): 15-25 HRK ($2-3 USD) Seafood platter: 100-200 HRK ($15-30 USD) Restaurant meal: 70-150 HRK ($10-25 USD) per person Local beer: 15-25 HRK ($2-3 USD) Coffee: 8-15 HRK ($1.25-$2.50 USD) Fun fact: Many restaurants offer “marenda” or “gablec” – a cheaper set lunch menu. Your wallet (and appetite) will appreciate it. Transportation: Single bus/tram ticket in Zagreb: 4-10 HRK ($0.50-1.50 USD) Catamaran from Split to Hvar: 40-110 HRK ($6-16 USD) Domestic bus (e.g., Zagreb to Split): 150-200 HRK ($22-30 USD) Car rental: 300-500 HRK ($45-75 USD) per day Warning: Parking in tourist hotspots can be expensive. Consider public transport or walking in busy areas. Activities: Plitvice Lakes National Park entrance: 80-300 HRK ($12- 45 USD) (depending on season) Dubrovnik City Walls walk: 200 HRK ($30 USD) Diocletian’s Palace, Split: Free (some areas charge entrance) Blue Cave tour from Split: 500-700 HRK ($75-105 USD) Remember: Many of Croatia’s beautiful beaches are free to access, providing budget-friendly days of sun and sea. Sample Daily Budgets: Shoestring: 300-500 HRK ($45-75 USD) per day Mid-range: 600-1000 HRK ($90-150 USD) per day Luxury: 1500+ HRK ($225+ USD) per day Note: These budgets don’t include international flights or your inevitable splurge on “souvenir” lavender products and truffle-infused olive oil. Unexpected Expenses: Tourist tax (usually included in accommodation price, but double-check) Ferry tickets for island hopping (can add up quickly) Entrance fees for popular beaches in some areas Remember, your budget in Croatia can fluctuate widely depending on your travel style. You could spend a fortune on yacht rentals and Michelin-starred restaurants, or embrace the local lifestyle of pebble beaches and konoba dining. Just don’t blame us when you’re eating canned sardines for a month after your trip because you couldn’t resist that fifth bottle of Plavac Mali or that “authentic” Dalmatian a cappella CD. Croatia: come for the coastline, stay because you spent all your money on boat trips. Dobar tek!z
The Ultimate Family Guide to…Tamarindo
The Ultimate Family Guide to… Tamarindo Surf, Sun, and Surviving Costa Rica with Kids Accommodations Day Trips Food Dude Beach Life Wildlife Nightlife More Foodie Finds Adventure Time Rainy-Day Saviors Cultural Tips Health and Safety Transportation Tidbits Shopping Wellness Quirky Local Facts Eco-Friendly Tips Language Lesson Final Words of Wisdom Welcome to Tamarindo, where the surf’s always up, the sun’s always shining, and your kids will definitely get sand in places you didn’t know existed. Buckle up, parents, because we’re about to embark on a wild ride through Costa Rica’s favorite beach town. Don’t worry, we’ve got all the tips you need to survive this tropical adventure with your sanity (mostly) intact. Accommodations Hacienda Pinilla – Where Luxury Meets Mosquitos! Why stay in town when you can luxuriate in Hacienda Pinilla? It’s just a short 15-minute drive from Tamarindo, assuming you don’t get lost on the dirt roads or stuck behind a herd of cows. Potholes are crazy, yes. Hacienda Pinilla is, basically, a giant gated community with a golf course, clubhouse, and access to a lot of private beaches. We scored our place on Airbnb. Pro tip: Pack bug spray. Lots of it. When we went – in the rainy season – there were an unnatural amount of mosquitoes in the area. Bonus Tip: Marriott pool pass for the day: $100. Because paying to use a pool when you’re surrounded by beaches makes total sense. Surfing Surf’s Up, Dudes and Dudettes! Surfing Surf’s Up, Dudes and Dudettes! No trip to Tamarindo is complete without turning your little ones into mini Kelly Slaters. Head to Iguana Surf for lessons that’ll have your kids hanging ten in no time (or at least hanging on for dear life). Prices: Private lessons: $80 per kid per session (They say 2 hours, but it’s really 1.5. Time moves differently in Costa Rica.) Semi-private: $60 per kid Group lessons: For when you want your kid to learn teamwork and the art of not crashing into other novice surfers Food, Dude Eating Out: Because Cooking on Vacation is Overrated Nico’s: Where the food is good and the wait times are… flexible. Great spot to watch the kids surf from their Iguana surf lessons. Green Papaya: For when you want to pretend you’re eating healthy on vacation. Good burritos. Fun swinging seats for the kids. Amazing chipotle salsa. Lola’s in Playa Avellanas: Because nothing says “vacation” like overpriced beach food. Food is fine, view is better. Lucha Tacos: For when you need a break from rice and beans. But not really. Better than expected. Jalapeños: Spice up your life (and possibly regret it later). Was pretty good for breakfast. Signs are everywhere in Hacienda Pinilla. Breaking Bread: Everyone swears this is the best breakfast in town. Grocery Shopping: Emptying Your Wallet, Costa Rican Style Mente y Limon for organic groceries: $600 for one shop. Who needs to eat for the rest of the month? Cutest grocery store I’ve seen in awhile. Automercado for everything else: $400 for one shop. Bargain! This is the place everyone told us to use. Roadside avocados: 10 for $4. Finally, something affordable! Bonus Tips: KFC chicken nuggets: $8. Personal chicken plate: $23. For when you’ve had enough local cuisine. Marriott nachos: $24. Chicken strips: $26. Highway robbery has never tasted so good. Day Trips There are tons of things to do on a day trip from Tamarindo, should you decide to leave the epic surf. Llanos de Cortés Waterfall: Simple and beautiful. Kids under 7 are free, adults pay about 12,000 Colones (about $24). The fee almost seemed negotiable as you’ll notice a lot of things are with the ever-in-flux currency conversion rates. There’s a “secret” 9-foot deep pool perfect for jumping in. Just head down the trail on the left of the waterfall. Don’t worry about the stagnant water; what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger, right? Catamaran out of Flamingo Marina: “Only” $1500 for a half-day plus 10% tip. Who needs college funds anyway? Kids did get to see puffer fish (they missed the sea turtle). Money Matters ATMs: The one by luggage pickup at San Jose airport is decorative. Head to departures for a working one. I had pretty good success with ATMs throughout the country. They usually offer both USD and Colones. However, many times the machine refused to spit out USD. Currency conversion: Double the “thousand” number in Colones. 4,000 Colones = $8USD. 20,000 Colones = $40USD. See? Math can be fun! Gas: $80 to fill up. Cheaper than the US, more expensive than Europe. You can’t win them all. Transportation Trials and Tribulations 100 miles on the map could mean 4-5 hours. Driving time from San Jose airport to Tamarindo: Long enough for your kids to ask “Are we there yet?” approximately 742 times. Driving time from Liberia airport = 45 minutes to an hour and a half (depending on traffic) Real taxis are reddish-orange with triangles. Anything else is just a stranger’s car. Car accidents are like national pastimes. We saw three in one day. It’s like a free street performance! SIM Card Saga Don’t get one at the airport I was told even by airport people. Don’t get one at Walmart because all they have are prepaid and, in our experience, you won’t be able to recharge them through the app. Maybe just embrace being disconnected? Or bring a carrier pigeon. Actually, we were able to go to a Liberty store in Liberia and get a plan for two months. It wasn’t unlimited data but it worked. Interesting aside – most of the sims you’ll purchase will have unlimited Wayz or Google Maps (super helpful) and social media apps like TikTok and Instagram (incredibly toxic). Beach Life More Than Just Surfing Sure, surfing is Tamarindo’s claim to fame, but there’s more to beach life here than riding waves: Playa Langosta: Just south of Tamarindo, this beach is perfect for when you want to escape the crowds. It’s like Tamarindo’s introverted cousin. Playa
20 Things to Know Before You Go to…Portugal
20 Things to Know Before You Go to… portugal Stuff you should definitely know. Like, definitely. Meal Time Portuguese is not Spanish Coffee Culture Pasteis de Nata Seafood is King Wine is Cheap Tipping Beaches Lisbon Azulejos Fado Trains Siesta Bifanas Cork The Algarve English Sardines Sintra Saudade 1.MEAL TIMES ARE LATE Lunch at 2 PM, dinner at 8 PM or later. Adjust your stomach accordingly. Strangely, when coming from Spain, meal times seem early here. 2. PORTUGUESE IS NOT SPANISH Learn a few basic phrases. “Obrigado/a” (thank you) goes a long way. Also, in our experience, people in Portugal would MUCH rather speak to you in English, rather than Spanish, if given the chance. 3. COFFEE CULTURE IS SERIOUS “Um café” will get you a shot of espresso. Specify if you want something larger. Unlike Italy, you can order an afternoon Cappuccino should your heart desire it. 4. PASTÉIS DE NATA ARE ADDICTIVE These custard tarts are a national treasure. Try them fresh from the oven. Not for everyone (i.e. me) but for most. 5. SEAFOOD IS KING Bacalhau (salted cod) appears in countless dishes. Give it a chance. 6. WINE IS CHEAP AND EXCELLENT Don’t just stick to Port. Try Vinho Verde or a Douro red. In fact, when and why would you drink Port? For a special occasion desert or in Porto, that’s all I can think of. 7. TIPPING ISN’T MANDATORY In fact, only in one restaurant did they try to force us into a tip. Remember, no one really tips in Europe. The servers get paid a living wage. Don’t ruin this. 8. BEACHES HAVE PERSONALITY From the wild Algarve to the surfing mecca of Nazaré, choose wisely. FYI – all the water is cold, year round. All of it. Just adjust your expectations. 9. LISBON ISN’T FLAt Pack comfortable shoes. Those picturesque hills are steeper than they look. You can get a taxi up to the castle (but it’s more fun to walk). 10. AZULEJOS ARE EVERYWHERE These decorative tiles are part of Portugal’s soul. Look up and around. It’s what brings the real beauty to the city in my opinion. 11. FADO IS HAUNTINGLY BEAUTIFUL Experience this traditional music in Lisbon or Coimbra. It’s unforgettable. 12. TRAINS ARE A GOOD OPTION Comfortable and often scenic, especially the Porto to Douro Valley route. 13. SIESTA ISN’T A THING Unlike Spain, most shops stay open through the afternoon. As someone who lives in Spain, can I get a “hell yeah”? I love this. 14. BIFANAS ARE THE PERFECT SNACK These simple pork sandwiches are a local favorite. Great with a cold beer. 15. CORK IS MORE THAN BOTTLE STOPPERS You’ll find cork products everywhere, from bags to shoes. I honestly don’t know who shops in these places, but more power to you. 16. THE ALGARVE ISN’T THE ONLY BEACH Try the less crowded Costa Vicentina or the islands of the Azores. 17. ENGLISH IS WIDELY SPOKEN But locals appreciate any attempt at Portuguese. 18. SARDINES ARE SEASONAL Fresh ones are typically available June through October. 19. SINTRA IS MAGICAL BUT CROWDED Go early or consider staying overnight to beat the day-trippers. You should also consider hiring a driver as it’s crazy driving up in there. 20. “SAUDADE” IS UNTRANSLATABLE This uniquely Portuguese concept of nostalgic longing embodies the culture. Remember, Portugal is more than just Lisbon and Porto. Explore smaller towns, embrace the relaxed pace of life, and don’t rush your meals. Learn to love seafood in all its forms, from grilled sardines to percebes (goose barnacles). And while the country is relatively small, each region has its own distinct character. Oh, and never confuse Portugal with Spain – it’s a quick way to offend locals. Boa viagem!
The Backroads of Croatia
The Backroads of.. Croatia The less-explored part of a beautiful country Istria Countryside Cetina Islands Croatia is a beautiful country with stunning coastlines along the Adriatic Sea, medieval walled cities, Roman ruins, and charming villages. While the popular tourist destinations like Dubrovnik, Split and Plitvice Lakes National Park are definitely worth visiting, some of the most interesting and authentic experiences can be found by getting off the beaten path and exploring the backroads of Croatia. This allows you to discover little-known towns, incredible natural scenery, wine regions, and interact with locals going about their traditional way of life. Let this be your guide to the best backroads and hidden gems that Croatia has to offer. Istria – The “Little Tuscany” of Croatia Istria is a heart-shaped peninsula at the westernmost point of Croatia, just across the Gulf of Trieste from Italy. The influence of its Venetian rule from the 13th-18th centuries gives Istria a distinctly Italian flavor in its architecture, cuisine, and culture. Wandering the backroads of Istria’s hilltop villages and coastline, you’ll feel worlds away from the conventional highlights of Croatia. Motovun Perched atop a hill at 277 meters, Motovun is one of the most scenic towns in Istria. The town’s medieval walls, cobblestone streets, and Romanesque houses make you feel like you’ve stepped back in time. Hike or take the road train up to the center, and reward yourself with nibbles and robust Teran wine at a konoba (traditional restaurant). Then walk along the fragrant truffle paths surrounding the town, as Motovun is a prime spot for white truffle hunting. Grožnjan Art lovers should make their way to the “Town of Artists” Grožnjan, just 10km from Motovun. This diminutive hilltop settlement has been revived as a colony for artists, musicians and photographers from around the world, with galleries and cultural events throughout the year. Wander the steep cobblestone alleys, appreciate the artist’s workshops and vibrant murals, and settle in for live music at one of the bars or cafes. Inland Istria Wine Routes Some of Croatia’s most celebrated wines like the bold red Teran and dry whites like Malvasia are produced in Istria’s interior valleys and rolling hills. Take the backroads to explore the villages and family-run vineyards along routes like the Parenzana Trail (following an old railway line), Vina Kras, and the Momjan Muscat Trail. Don’t miss tastings at acclaimed producers like Kozlovic and Kabola. Rovijn One of the most enchanting towns along Istria’s coast is Rovinj, with its church steeple towers and pastel-colored homes spilling down to the Adriatic. This is a Rick Steves favorite. Make sure to wander the narrow cobbled streets of the old town and harbor. Climb up to the Church of St. Euphemia or take a boat excursion to one of the nearby islands. Rovinj offers plentiful galleries, cafes, shops and a lively fishing culture that has remained authentic. Pula For a dose of history, head to Pula which has one of the best preserved Roman amphitheaters in the world. In addition to the impressive arena that once hosted gladiator games, Pula’s Roman ruins include the Arch of the Sergii and Temple of Augustus. Explore the backstreets of the old town as well as the seafront promenade and colorful row of Austro-Hungarian villas along the coast. Continental Croatia’s Countryside While the Croatian coast gets most of the attention, the rural interior of continental Croatia has a slower pace and Old World feel that warrants exploration, especially for food and wine lovers. Szirmia Located in northeastern Croatia near the Hungarian border, the Slavonia region and its fertile lowlands are known across the country for viniculture and delicious smoked and cured meat products like kulen (a paprika-spiced pork sausage). Osijek is the largest city and a great base to tour the villages and farms in the area, like Lug and Čakovci which have traditional homes, vineyards, and restaurants highlighting Slavonian cuisine. Lika/Plitvice Region The inland area known as Lika sits just south of Plitvice Lakes National Park and makes a nice detour from that popular park. Drive the scenic backroads through the villages and farmlands, stopping in places like Sertić Žleb in Kuterevo to pick up homemade cheeses and cured meat products. The village of Rastoke sits along cascades of the Slunjčica River and is particularly charming with its waterfalls and mills. Zagorje Known for its iconic “prickly” houses adorned with intricate decorative woodcarvings, the villages of Hrvatsko Zagorje are like an open-air ethnographic museum for Croatian folk traditions. Drive from town to town, stopping at homesteads in places like Kumrovec (birthplace of Tito), Marija Bistrica (Croatia’s biggest pilgrimage site), and Gornja Stubica to walk among the preserved architecture and buy handicrafts from locals keeping the customs alive. Cetina Region For adventurous travelers, the area around the Cetina River offers a dramatic landscape of canyons, waterfalls, caves, forests and traditional villages. This region in the Dalmatian hinterland is nicknamed the “Eye of Croatia” for its natural beauty and wealth of outdoor activities like hiking, rafting, canyoning and rock climbing. Explore places like Vrlik and Vrlika where you can experience rural life and hospitality, as well as easy access to natural attractions along the Cetina like Gubavica Waterfall and the Cetina Gorge. Coastal Backroads & Islands While Dubrovnik, Split and Hvar see huge crowds during high season, some of the small Adriatic islands and stretches of coastline dotted with seaside hamlets offer a much quieter, authentic atmosphere for visiting Croatia. Lastovo Archipelago Directly south of Split, the remote Lastovo islands are as far removed as you can get in Croatia. With only around 900 residents on the main island, Lastovo offers a true escape with miles of pristine coastline, nature preserves like Lastovnjaci islets, and a handful of small fishing villages like Lastovo Town and Skrivena Luka. Take the once-daily ferry from Split and enjoy swimming, sailing, cycling, wine tasting and traditional cuisine at a slow-paced rhythm. Elaphiti Islands This idyllic chain of small islands near Dubrovnik – Elaphiti Islands – are a refuge
20 Things to Know Before You Go to…Spain
20 Things to Know Before You Go to… Spain Or How to Avoid Looking Like a Complete Guiri Meal Times Siesta Space Tapas Hola Sobremesa Fútbol Nightlife August TV Menú del Día Regional Languages Tipping Sangria Tortilla Pork Flamenco Train System Pickpockets Paella 1. Meal Times Are… Different Lunch at 2:30 PM until 5 PM, dinner at 8:30 PM until midnight. Your stomach will adapt, eventually. Maybe. It feels good to be eating dinner at midnight, not gonna lie. 2. Siesta Is Real (Sort Of) Many(!) shops close in the afternoon, all at different times. Plan accordingly or embrace impromptu nap time. This is borderline annoying and has led to 10 PM dentist appointments since all those hours closed for siesta end up getting pushed back. 3. Personal Space Is Optional Spaniards are close talkers. If you can count their eyelashes, you’re probably still too far away. Also, they don’t really notice when you’re trying to past them on a sidewalk. 4. Tapas Etiquette Varies In some places, they’re free with a drink. In others, you pay. In Madrid, they’re called ‘pinchos’. In San Sebastien they’re amazing and called something else entirely. It’s complicated. 5. “Hola” Is Not Hello It’s more like “hey.” Use “buenos días/tardes/noches” for a proper greeting. Me, I whenever I say hola someone usually answers with hasta luego. And when I say hasta luego they almost always greet me with hola. I’m somehow always off on this. 6. Sobremesa Is Sacred The art of lingering after a meal. Mastering this is key to Spanish integration. One of the best things is that servers are never anxious to turn over your table. 7. Fútbol Is Life Learn the basics or prepare for some very confused looks. The season never ends. Kids aged eight in Spain are as good as kids aged 14 in the US. 8. Nightlife Starts Late Like, really late. 1 AM is when things start warming up. I’ve routinely seen people getting home at 8 AM. 9. August Is… Interesting It’s hot, many locals are on vacation, and some businesses close. But the beaches are great! Literally, it’s laughable that tourists go to Sevilla in August. The city is a frying pan and almost completely empty. 10. Dubbed Foreign TV Is Common Prepare to hear Arnold Schwarzenegger speaking fluent Spanish. He’s pretty good actually. 11. Menú del Día Is Your Friend A set lunch menu that’s usually great value. Your wallet will thank you. 12. Regional Languages Exist Catalan, Basque, Galician… Spain is more than just Spanish. It’s a nation of many nations. A region of many regions. Held only together by the national fútbol team, as far as I can tell. 13. Tipping Isn’t Mandatory 5-10% for good service is appreciated but not expected. But, honestly, we don’t tip. It’s a bit strange. Servers may actually chase you down to give the tip back. Don’t ruin this for us. 14. Sangria Is for Tourists Locals drink tinto de verano. It’s similar but less fancy (and cheaper). I’ve almost never seen a local order a sangria in over five years. 15. Tortilla ≠ Mexican Flatbread It’s a potato omelette and it’s delicious. Don’t embarrass yourself by asking for salsa. Me, I prefer the Mexican stuff. Please don’t tell anyone as I’ll be immediately deported. 16. Pork Is Everywhere Vegetarians, prepare for a challenge. “Sin carne” often still includes ham. In fact, Iberico ham is considered vegan as the pigs only eat acorns. 17. Flamenco Isn’t Ubiquitous It’s mainly an Andalusian thing. Don’t expect flamenco dancers on every corner in Madrid. I’ve had Northern Spain people refer to where I live – Andalusia – as “oh, yeah, that olé place (eye roll) with the spotted dresses.” 18. The Train System Is Excellent RENFE, Spain’s national railway, is efficient and often cheaper than flying. But, for our family of five, driving is almost always cheaper. 19. Beware of Pickpockets Especially in tourist areas. That “free” bracelet isn’t really free. Just like in Rome, don’t take things people hand you. 20. Paella Has Rules Real paella is from Valencia and doesn’t have chorizo. Prepare for passionate debates. Remember, the key to enjoying Spain is to embrace the laid-back lifestyle, perfect your “no pasa nada” attitude, and always be ready for an impromptu fiesta. Oh, and learn to love jamón. Vegetarians, I’m sorry, but it’s everywhere. Buen viaje!
Escape to the Idyllic Islands Near Dubrovnik
Escape to the Idyllic Islands Near… Dubrovnik Just get on a boat and go! Lokrum Island Mljet National Park Elaphiti Islands Dubrovnik is famous for its stunning Old Town and medieval walls along the Adriatic coast. However, the islands just offshore provide an opportunity to truly get away from it all and experience a slower, more relaxing pace of life. From the chic beach clubs of Lokrum to the unspoiled nature of Mljet National Park, the islands near Dubrovnik offer something for everyone. Here are some of the top island destinations to explore on a day trip or overnight excursion from Dubrovnik. Lokrum Island A quick 10-15 minute ferry ride from Dubrovnik’s Old Harbor brings you to the leafy oasis of Lokrum. This petite island is home to a Benedictine monastery, botanical gardens, several small beaches, and beaches clubs like Lacroma Beach and Portun Bay. Hike the island’s trails, visit the ruins of the old monastery, or just spend a lazy day swimming and sunbathing at one of the beach clubs. Ferries depart regularly from early morning until late evening. Mljet National Park About two hours from Dubrovnik by ferry lies Mljet, one of Croatia’s most stunning national parks. The western part of the island contains two lakes nestled inside the park – Veliko Jezero (Big Lake) and Malo Jezero (Small Lake). Take a boat across to the Islet of St. Mary, which has a 12th century Benedictine monastery in the middle of the Small Lake. Hike or bike around the lakes, explore the pine forests, and discover hidden coves and saltwater lakes along the coast. Stay overnight in one of the park’s hotels to fit everything in. Elaphiti Islands This small archipelago just northwest of Dubrovnik makes an easy day trip or overnight stay. The three largest islands are Koločep, Lopud and Šipan. Lopud is probably the favorite for a beach getaway, with sandy Sunj Beach being one of the nicest in the area. Šipan is quieter and more traditional, with historic monasteries, churches and villages inland. Take a ferry from Dubrovnik and spend a day hopping between the islands and their charming harbors and coves. Conclusion Whether you’re looking for beaches, nature, history or just tranquility, the islands near Dubrovnik provide the perfect escape from the crowds. Book a tour with a local operator or explore on your own by ferry to experience this beautiful island chain in the Adriatic.
Two Week Itinerary in…Vietnam
The Ultimate Itinerary… Vietnam 2 Weeks in Vietnam (Or How to Cram an Entire Country Into Your Scant Vacation Days) Hanoi Halong Bay Hue Hoi An Ho Chi Minh City Perfect Two Week Vietnam Itinerary Day 1-3 Hanoi Where Chaos Meets Charm Welcome to Hanoi, the capital city where the honking never stops and crossing the street is an extreme sport. Spend your first day getting lost in the labyrinthine Old Quarter, where you’ll find everything from knockoff North Face jackets to restaurants so tiny you’ll wonder if you’ve stumbled into a dollhouse. Must-do activities: Visit Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum (because nothing says “vacation” like viewing a preserved communist leader) Explore Hoan Kiem Lake and Ngoc Son Temple Take a street food tour (pro tip: if you can’t identify it, it’s probably delicious) Day 4-5 Halong Bay Limestone Karsts and Junk Boats Time to hop on a bus and head to the UNESCO World Heritage site of Halong Bay. Marvel at the thousands of limestone islands jutting out of the emerald waters while you cruise around on a traditional junk boat. Just don’t expect to get any peace and quiet – turns out, everyone else had the same idea. Activities: Kayak through hidden caves Visit floating villages Attempt tai chi on the deck at sunrise (warning: may result in unintentional comedy) Day 6-7 Hue Imperial City and Royal Tombs Next stop: Hue, the former imperial capital. Here, you’ll get your fill of history, architecture, and enough temples to make your head spin. Don’t miss: The Imperial Citadel (prepare for some serious step-counting) Thien Mu Pagoda A boat trip down the Perfume River (spoiler alert: it doesn’t actually smell like perfume) Day 8-10 Hoi An Lanterns, Tailors, and Charm Overload Welcome to Hoi An, the town that Instagram dreams are made of. Prepare yourself for an onslaught of colorful lanterns, tailor shops, and more tourists than you can shake a chopstick at. To-do list: Get clothes custom-made (because who doesn’t need a silk kimono?) Take a cooking class (and subsequently ruin all future Vietnamese takeout for yourself) Bike through the rice paddies to An Bang Beach Day 11-13 Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) Sensory Overload Central Your final stop is Ho Chi Minh City, where the past and present collide in a whirlwind of motorbikes, colonial architecture, and more coffee shops than you can count. Must-see attractions: War Remnants Museum (a sobering but essential visit) Cu Chi Tunnels (claustrophobics, you’ve been warned) Ben Thanh Market (haggle like your life depends on it) Day 14 Depart with a Heavy Heart (and Heavier Luggage) As you board your flight home, reflect on the whirlwind adventure you’ve just had. Your bank account may be lighter, but your heart (and stomach) are undoubtedly full.